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Erdem
In a fabulous display of 20th century chic, Erdem Moralioglu presented his AW16 pieces amidst beautiful boudoir set designs inspired by English artist Oliver Messel.
The Canadian born designer found the muse for his collection amongst the women of old Hollywood, explaining that “she might pick up a 1920s shift dress and mix it with 1940s tailoring or a 1930s bias dress. It was all about these women putting their best foot forward for this moment in their lives. Women trying to be something else.”
But Erdem is not only representing the lives of the women that came before us, but also mirroring that of the modern woman; the woman who can be both spontaneous and fun, whilst also being level-headed and mature, something that society often forgets is possible within the constraints it places on women.
A powerhouse of dark, classic prints, reimagined with sharp, statement trims to create a collection of new and exciting pieces that feel as though they’ve stepped out of a sepia soaked reel of film and straight into the modern day.
Burberry
If the Burberry show hadn’t already been one of LFW’s most popular shows in previous years, it was certainly going to be in 2016 after sparking a controversial debate in the fashion world by releasing their collection in stores before hitting the runway and foregoing the usual 6 month gap.
And as always the Burberry show did not fail to impress with their bold, yet timeless pieces that embody what it means to be a woman in today’s world – seeking yesterday’s nostalgic and iconic styles, whilst affording ourselves the strength and freedom of the modern day feminist.
Cut against a runway that personified the juxtaposition of their collection, Burberry’s signature strong tailoring was paired with softer fabrics, demanding the undivided attention of the dark audience set alongside the bright catwalk.
Awash with autumnal tones were a range of snakeskin trench coats, metallic dresses and embellished shirts; each piece being a carefully designed and collectable item that would not look out of place next to popular high street pieces.
Once again Burberry steals the show, gaining more fans with their nod to current fashion, whilst not alienating their devoted brand enthusiasts.
Alexander McQueen
In true McQueen style their collection of flowing dark fabrics constrained by strict tailoring beautifully told the story of the battle between our hopes and our fears.
Embroidered with splashes of colour and a lightness that was welcomed amongst the sea of black; butterflies, birds and flowers fought against the engulfing dark materials on which they sat, representing the struggle between a women’s light and dark side.
Sarah Burton described her work as “the idea of time, of moths and eyes, sometimes with a sort of surrealism – it’s all a conscious/subconscious thing.” A clever look into the inner workings of the female mind, paralleled against how society believes it looks.
It is a collection that continually adds to its own meaning – look at it once and you see one thing, look again and it means another, much like a woman herself.
