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Entering the world of Heston Blumenthal is like entering Willy Wonka’s infamous chocolate factory. His eclectic, adventurous and scientifically perfect gourmet vision never fails to capture his diners imaginations, and has made him one of the most renowned chefs Britain has to offer. His black framed specs are as iconic as his food, so when we had the chance to eat at his Michelin star restaurant, Dinner by Heston Blumenthal in the heart of London, we couldn’t stop licking our lips. Showered with accolades, this restaurant was never going to disappoint, so I’ll warn you now, this review has no form of sarcastic criticism whatsoever.
Dinner by Heston Blumenthal is a journey through decades of good old British grub. But not just any old grub, the sort of grub that kings ate. Having spent years researching and exploring Britain’s gastronomic past, Blumenthal and Executive Chef Ashley Palmer-Watts consulted with food historians and spent endless hours at The British Library in search of ideas. Combining this research with his years of expertise as a celebrated star chef, Heston has created an exquisite and charming menu that is not for the faint hearted. Rice & Flesh (c.1390) made with calves tail, and Meat Fruit (c.1500) are just two examples of his dishes that are as far from your classic prawn cocktail and house burger as possible.
We started our three course journey with these two very dishes, and the Meat Fruit proved as weird and wonderful as it sounded. A light, mousey chicken liver & foie gras parfait is covered in a thin, flavoursome orange gel to give the immaculate and exact look and taste of a freshly picked mandarin. The standards increased with the mains, which again is a historically inviting range of fish and meat dishes, complete with classically Heston style, quirky twists.
Then, the star of the show deserves its own paragraph. The Tipsy Cake (c.1810) is by far, the most warming, moreish and devilishly angelic pudding I have ever come across (and believe me, I like my puddings). This enticing, understated and quietly confident cake arrives in a miniature cast iron pot, which hugs the rum soaked, cream filled brioche. Together with a spit roasted slab of sticky pineapple, this flavour infused cake is a sin to share. We immediately decided to rebook a table for August with the aim to come back just for this cake again.
The minimalist design of Dinner By Heston Blumenthal inside the grandiose Mandarin Hotel in Knightsbride leaves no room for distraction. The interior allows for full, committed focus on the dishes themselves. A blank canvas if you like. Heston needs no introduction, and his restaurant reflects just this. It’s an experience all food lovers need to try. Hats off to you Heston!
By Marni Banks
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