As you take your seat to see the latest wears from the same designers, it is quite fascinating how season after season they manage to maintain a fresh balance between evolving their brand into something new, whilst remaining cohesive and true to the values of their fashion house. For me no one quite manages to do this more so than Filippo Scuffi, Creative Director of DAKS, who is not scared to take a leap of faith in order to propel his brand into a new era of fashion. Just last season Scuffi famously chose to abandon the famous house check, and for AW15 while the check is most certainly back, the story is a far cry from similarities to seasons past.

For AW15 the British fashion house took the phrase ‘luxury in motion’ as an inspirational focus. From the Latin ‘modus’ which means movement, evolution and dynamism, DAKS chose wheels as a representative focal point to retell the story of English motorcycling through their latest ready-to-wear offering.

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As intense red lighting masked the catwalk and the sensual tones of Barry White filled the space a fiery colour palette of red, black, white and grey stormed the runway. Iconic motorcycling garments were showcased through accents of luxe red quilting, driving gloves and close fitting leather biker jackets, while the collection was given a feminine edge with the addition of patent knee high boots and belt cinched waists.

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A distinct nod to the mod was ever present in the detailing of the collection. From the heavy lined eyes and nude lips to the 60s inspired biker caps that accompanied a number of the accomplished looks. The house check of seasons past featured heavily in the collection, adorning low slung cropped trousers and masculine inspired double breasted jackets. Show stopping looks came in the form of an unforgettable red velvet maxi trench and a relaxed fit floor length chiffon shirtdress, embellished in a delicate tulip print, to contrast the masculine structured shapes and block colours.

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Travelling along the eclectic road of Filippo Scuffi’s thought process it is once again apparent that when it comes to bold creative expression Scuffi is in no way afraid to leave more cautious designers in his wake.

By Jenna Jones

 

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