Vogue 100: A Century of Style

“What Vogue did made sense to me because it dealt with fantasy and the magical. As I studied its archive I started really to understand photography.” – Tim Walker

Fantasy and magic, two words that succinctly describe the publishing juggernaut that is Vogue. From young girls dreamily escaping real life through its glossy pages to aspiring photographers and stylists hoping that one day their creative talent will grace its iconic cover; Vogue is, and forever will be, so much more than just another fashion rag. 

Limelight Nights by Helmut Newton, 1973 ©The Condé Nast Publications Ltd

Showcased at the National Portrait Gallery, Vogue 100: A Century of Style is a visual exploration into the iconic imagery that has made the publication what it is today. Featuring a room for every one of the ten decades that make up Vogue history, the whole experience is a nostalgic feast for the eyes, exhibiting not just renowned images and covers that evoke familiarity, but also many never before seen unpublished shots.

Charlie Chaplin in New York by Edward Steichen, 1926 © The Estate of Edward Steichen/Joanna T. Steichen / ARS, NY and DACS, London

If ever there was a way to silence the anti-fashion critics then Vogue 100: A Century of Style is it. The photo credits read like a who’s who of  twentieth century photographers with the early works of Cecil Beaton, Irving Penn and Snowdon paving the way for the likes of Tim Walker, Patrick Demarchelier and Mario Testino. And the line up of those in front of the lens was (unsurprisingly) just as impressive, yet while it was special to see highlights such as the entire set of prints from Corinne Day’s controversial Kate Moss underwear shoot from the 90s what really hit home was the complete and utter diversity that is so often overlooked when it comes to Vogue. An unlikely portrait of Boris Johnson from his ‘Blond Ambition’ feature is showcased alongside a high fashion clad Linda Evangelista or exquisite cover photo of Lady Diana Spencer. Since 1916 Vogue has photographed and featured the most influential names from fashion, film, politics and aristocracy, never once afraid to push the boundaries of normalcy.

Linda Evangelista by Patrick Demarchelier, 1991 ©The Condé Nast Publications Ltd

In her own words Alexandra Shulman, Editor in Chief of British Vogue, said of the exhibition: “Vogue 100: A Century of Style is a landmark exhibition in the history of magazine photography. I am incredibly proud of this collection of exceptional photography and of the whole concept of the exhibition, which shows the breadth and depth of the work commissioned by the magazine as well as Vogue’s involvement in the creation of that work. The National Portrait Gallery is a wonderful place for this show, which mixes portraiture and contemporaneous artistic style in the same way as much of the Gallery’s own collection. Anybody interested in photography, fashion, fame and magazines will find this an unmissable experience.”

Fashion is Indestructible by Cecil Beaton, 1941 ©The Condé Nast Publications Ltd

Vogue 100: A Century of Style is at the National Portrait Gallery, London, from 11 February – 22 May 2016, sponsored by Leon Max.