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Jamie Wei Huang looked to the concepts of afterlife for inspiration behind her SS16 collection, appropriately titled ‘Nibbana’ – derived from traditional Buddhist language. Huang’s collection was a beautiful and thought-provoking amalgamation of different cultures, countries and personal experiences of the afterlife. How different religions think and perceive heaven and hell. The result of this? A collection that played with soft silhouettes and loose fabrics yet finished with a harsh print and accessory.
The London-based designer’s trademark laid-back styling was out in full, jackets were loosely fastened and slung to one side revealing models midriff, shirts only held up with one button, hands tucked into pockets. Similar to last season, models paced extra slow down the catwalk to a booming almost spooky soundtrack. The pieces had an undeniable sportswear-cool feel to them, baggy joggers crafted of a buttery soft leather and tennis shape skirts were teamed with high neck jumpers and mesh vests.
Whereas last season took a nod to the bondage scene, this season the use of metal hardware finished pieces with an industrial utilitarian vibe; bolts secured additional coloured panels and shapes onto the backs of mesh vests while metal clasps held up leather pinafores. Drawstrings were used to fit and shape the garments to models while chest-grazing, leather tassel earrings hung from their ears.
A predominately monochrome collection, Huang’s clever manipulation and combination of different fabrics and prints created depth to the looks, hues of vibrant red and royal blue fed in, through features on the hardware of designs and panels of texture.
As the collection progressed the use of prints became more frequent. A recurring, seemingly kitsch floral print, on closer inspection was actually made up of a small demon characters intertwined in flowers. This print became a key feature of the collection; emblazoned across structured biker jackets, bralets and full-length swinger skirts, often finished with a harsh black trim or oversized, yet practical pocket.
It was a change in direction but still distinctively Jamie, carving-out a reserved yet sporty, bold woman for SS16. It was her special attention to intricate details that redefined classic shapes and weaved the many stories, both dark and warming, of the afterlife.
