Christopher Raeburn LFW

After being awarded the Breakthrough Designer award by GQ only weeks before, all eyes were on Christopher Raeburn on the final day of London Fashion Week SS16. Transported back to the Asian Island Borneo, Raeburn flew the audience from the depths of the rainforest – (as the scene was set for his menswear collection earlier in the year) to the Malaysian state of Sarawak, known for its diverse tribes and rugged rainforest for his womenswear collection. 

Focusing on the female explorers of the rainforest, heavy tribal music filled the show space, setting the scene. Renowned for his ethical, innovative sportswear Raeburn ventured into a whole new field this season, in place of the usual heavy sweatshirts and puffer jackets, flattering, flowy, floor-length skirts, and patchwork dresses fed onto the catwalk. 

The garments which played with texture and movement, consisted of deep v-neck dresses and oversized t-shirts, crafted with panels of white mesh and a tropical yellow print. Black sheer fabric decorated the neckline of dainty ruffled dresses, peeking out from under dresses to create a sheer sleeve insert or flowing hemline. Styled with a chunky pair of sandals, silhouettes were longline and flattering, each look cleverly styled to define the waistline. 

Structured fabrics began feeding into looks, adding an element of workwear to the soft pieces. Sleeveless blazers in hues of grey, black and ocean blue were crafted with a wraparound body or large lapel; they were practical yet still had a feminine touch to them. Distinctively utilitarian, shoulders were squared and the waist nipped in, flattering the female form.

Strips of fabric were threaded together in a basket weave, making for an interesting technique not dissimilar to that used by the tribes of Sarawak to craft flowing skirts. The same technique featured sporadically on the sleeves of the military-style parkas and trousers giving that shredded, ship wrecked look.

Fabric from recycled parachutes was used by Raeburn to craft the collection, it gave a feel of authenticity to the collection. Think the Raeburn woman washed ashore on the island of Sarawak with only the fabric of her parachute to fend for herself. The result of this a range of asymmetrical, patchworked dresses, in hues of pale blue and olive green. The fine details not forgotten are something Raeburn excels in, from the sheen of the nylon fabric to original heavy-duty seams, selling a high fashion yet convincing story.